There were in a wood on a roadside giraffes, as the ghosts combined from patches of light of the sun and shadows of foliage. In height about the two-storeyed house, and at once you will not make out. They cost at a track, as the lifted barriers! And, as before a barrier, it is necessary to brake. Giraffes do not pass a track, and as though in a slowed-up way fly. Surprising gait - any fluid and deliquescent fluctuation.
Has passed, having buried in the ground a nose, black-backed jackal: to a floor-fox, a floor-wolf. Red, with a dark saddle on to a back. Black-backed, gold, saddled, a black back - here how many at it names. Perceptible an animal!
Mince wart-hog. The flat muzzle bear cautiously as if a tray with glasses, - spill are afraid. “Glasses” - four cut canines from under lips. All muzzle in tuber and knobs: two tubers under the eyes, two a nose. On eyes the predatory bang, on cheeks shaggy whiskers. A kind desperate. Lives wart-hog in the ground. An earthen wild boar: in a hole sleeps, in a hole of pigs deduces, in a hole it is hidden. On run short legs flash. At a hole will by all means be developed and will squeeze into it back. By itself a hole will stop up. And towards will expose from a hole pineal a muzzle with canines-daggers. Not at each leopard on such the paw will rise…
In the party under acacias elephants. Hunched extinguish as a heap of dark boulders. One passes a track, being mown and swinging a head. Goes easily and silently, as if legs at it rubber. Politely makes way. Also it seems, all understands: very intelligent eye looks at you through “keyhole”!
Wide gleam in a wood, the red, trampled clay. And in the middle - muddy small lake. An animal watering place. But while animal soul. Coast all studded hoofs. The cow traces of giraffes, only twice it is more, shy heart hoofs impala, dents of curve hoofs of a gnu, rough hoofs of buffalo s, horse not heeled hoofs of zebras, traces of the heavy hippopotamus. Elephant’s traces, hoofs a clumsy wild boar wart-hog, the cat’s, soft trace of a lion, jackals.

On Pemba where most of all clove plantations and the set of landless Africans, fruits of reform are especially appreciable. The hammered son of the slave has become the free peasant. 25 thousand acres of the ground belonged feudal lords, now it is gratuitous distribute 8 thousand poor families.
Here, on Pemba, you understand, that air impregnated by a smell of a carnation means. Spicy aroma pursues everywhere, excites, stupefy. From 4,5 million clove trees that grow on two islands, 4 million.-on Pemba.
- In the Peak, the center of island where especially it is a lot of plantations, - tells S.Kulik, - I somehow drank water from a source. Has poured a glass, but has talked nonsense with Mahmud Mushini , the inspector of a plantation. Stand with a glass in hands of minutes ten and when has brought it to lips drank not so simple water, and clove a drink: beside, on a cement platform, were dried clove buds.
As well as the majority of the plants, giving spices, clove a tree extremely whimsically, exactingly to grounds, temperature and humidity.
It would seem, what can be a difference between the islands Pemba located in the neighborhood and Zanzibar with identical geological history and a climate? On this tree has preferred island Pemba, has got accustomed on this island better, than no matter where in the world.
Island Pemba Pa collect good harvests of a dried carnation: on 3-3,5 kg from a tree.
Already became tradition, that every year in April pupils of schools of Pemba for one month leave school desks and work on new plantations. It goes on advantage to the country and pupils: does not allow them to forget, that such work.
Africa, continents, Tourism,  Traveling, animals, island, Pemba, Zanzibar, clove

On will much opens. Here you understand, why animals such. Why the giraffe is similar to a bell tower, and at wart-hog are erased knees. For what to a bird-rhinoceros a beak-horn. Why the hippopotamus on legs- dumpling.
Black fenny coast are trampled by hoofs of buffalo s. Bunches of a green marsh grass stick out. Huge coal bags was stuck in a pool dirty buffalo s. Lay: chew in doze, and a number white herons.
At coast in small lake “hummock” has emerged. On it two protruding eyes natterjack eyes. A hummock with eyes! The hippopotamus it is not visible, from above only eyes, ears yes nostrils. And it sees all, all hears. Easily and conveniently to it in water: the hippopotamus in weightlessness! It is not necessary to hold on legs- dumpling I extinguish in three tons.
Crocodiles do not touch hippopotamuses: very much they thick-skinned! And hippopotamuses of crocodiles cannot suffer. Also manage to have a bite half-and-half: canines at hippopotamuses on three kg! They are especially well visible, when hippopotamuses yawn: such yawning dredges.
And still a dry snag and on it two strange birds - open-billed stork. Beaks at them are not closed densely, always hardly opened - therefore and open-billed stork. Beaks are similar to long nippers for caustic nuts. It and really nippers, only split them bowls of snails. Open-billed stork at all gawk, will not miss the . Beaks-nippers sharp-sightedly peer at their grass green lizard eyes, on call.
Another time above savanna shined the sun. Herds of lungs impala as shoal red grasshoppers, jumped over road. At them dry small heads and the enormous plush ears. And harmonious long necks. And legs in golden stockings with black webs. The most beautiful antelopes of Africa!
Having skipped away aside, the herd has stopped, gauging and looks. Herds of impala-goats protect goats. Horns-lyres only at them. In their horns on run the wind sings it. They pay off with a head for fine horns there where still allow to hunt.

The savanna - the African steppe, in translation with Portuguese means « steppe with trees ». Bushes and trees grow In savanna: bushes - thickets, trees - groves. Acacias stick out as if the umbrellas thrust in the ground, and refer to - umbellate acacias.
In the summer savanna damp and green, in the winter - yellow and dry. Numerous large animals are found. Zebras are grazed together with giraffes and understand each other about a floor of a sight. Will be guarded Giraffes - and zebras will set ears. Giraffes and the general herd like observant towers: eyes so are planted, that all around see also a head it is not necessary to twirl. When the herd of zebras and giraffes moves in thickets, to count it is impossible neither those, nor others. Sides, necks, heads, legs - all mixes up and dispatched on strips and spots.
Up to what zebras are good! Strong, as if hardly pumped up; and holds apart them from surplus, vital forces. Lift up each other, kick, go for a drive by the ground, only hoofs in a dust flash also strips on a skin it is not visible. But a wind as the careful groom, will quickly clear a skin up to shine.
With fractional footfall the herd of zebras from road - and in opinion of flashing before eyes will rush! And suddenly will stand, spring, ears and a mane upright. Bright and appreciable, as if striped columns on abrupt turn of highway.
Having lowered to the ground horse muzzles, dusted in steppe herd of antelopes of a gnu. Up to what a silly animal! With a muzzle of a horse, horns of the bull, a body of an antelope. Goatee and a horse tail. Fantastic small horse. The gnu are full of care and curiosity. Straining a hard neck and throwing up, by bony back, a gnu at a meeting are carried away in steppe. But it is fast, being covered with bushes, come back, putting out from branches, bearded heads.
The gnu with zebras, giraffes and antelopes impala are grazed. And too understand each other. Herds of animals converge, miss, mix up. Here only you understand, for the sake of what people are started up in long trips.

Kivu not only most beautiful of great lakes of Africa, is a unique large reservoir on all continent, not populated by crocodiles and hippopotamuses.
In waters of lake on depth from 350 up to 480 m in huge quantities the dissolved carbonic gas, methane and other substances contains. In superficial layers of these substances meets a little so for the person they are imperceptible. Nevertheless it is enough of them to not allow the harmful elementary to occupy lake Kivu.
The quantity of natural gases in Kivu gradually grows, as at the bottom of a waste hollow which borrows lake, the decaying fossils getting from the top layers have accumulated many. Their concentration speaks, on the one hand, huge hydrostatic pressure which is created with huge water thickness of deep lake, with another - stagnant character of deep waters which do not mix up with top. Stocks of methane reach here 50-60 billion м3, and the government of Rwanda assigns greater hopes for its use. Meanwhile the huge water gasholder supplies with fuel only located in Kisenii a brewery. But on methane Kivu the whole branches of the heavy industry could work. The government of Rwanda has addressed to neighboring countries with the offer to construct on the cooperative beginnings an interstate metal works where Rwandan methane could be used as an oxidizer.
The coast Kivu Rwandan seems where more beautifully Congolese. Woody mountains rising from water as though part, and between them in the east distances of savannas open.
Small coffee plantations the dark greens sharply contrast with allotments of peas and beans - the basic food of farmers - hootoo.
Here and there on coast the massive buildings of Catholic missions combined from a dark red brick tower; a cathedral, a number school, a hostel, hospital.

Kisenii - small Rwandan small town, a resort and the shopping center located on coast of lake Kivu.
We approach on lake from the north where last eruptions of a volcano burned out a wood and have covered the ground with the monotonous reservation grey tuffs. The heated lava has gone down in lake, has boiled its water па distance of 40 m from coast and has formed long deserted cape.
If not the bright sun, royal palm trees along coasts and flaring bright-red colors bougainvilleas at inputs in private residences Kivu it would be quite possible to accept for the Norwegian fjord. Each eruption of volcano Niragongo put forward new small peninsula or cape in lake, gave rise to new bays and gulfs, created whimsical outlines of its modern coastal lily.
Overgrown moistureloving woods of a rock break directly to transparent waters which, washing away soft tuffs, create freakish grottoes and caves. In the narrow gulfs deeply pressing mountains shaded from above by crones of trees, always easy, darkly and mysteriously. And on small islands - rocks solar patches of light start up cheerful hare, and the easy breeze breaks about them the waves, scattering diamonds splashes.
Living among mountains of east coast Kivu people of a tribe hoonde, every day observing as the sun sits down in red lake, have combined a legend. In it the sun spend the night in Kivu is spoken that. It warms up its bottom, and the fused ground mixs up with water, searches for an output. And then living under mountain to a floor a giant - demigod Gongo orders to spirits to open a muzzle of a volcano. « Then eruption begins, - assure hoonde.-And red light which in the evenings is visible above Niragongo, is gleam the sleeping sun ».

With human ant hill rustles and the market of Kigali potters about. Already nobody takes away at Rwandan the peasant its crop. And the market and now - an original mirror of economy of all country.
On wooden races are hanged out patterns motley chintz and cheap clothes. It sew in the street. Tailoring men are engaged.
Near to their “workshops”, it is direct on the ground, - multi-coloured plastic cups and plates, tiny pocket mirrors, handfuls of cigarettes, combs, a beads, copper bracelets. Hills of a peanut till 10-12 nutlets, an ear of corn which sell lay, having divided on two-rub parts, and bananas, bananas, the bananas filling air around of the market by a sickening sourish smell.
There and then, open-air, on banana leaves spread out by the ground and shabby mats, were placed African beer.  In huge, there is less meter in height, big-bellied pots ickibindi banana beer uruguagu foams. Who wishes to try this drink, buys a hollow stalk of a reed in the neighborhood, lowers it in a pot and, costing, sips beer. The price of this pleasure - all some fine coins.
On a capital market, as well as in a home market of the country as a whole, shortage of the foodstuffs is felt still. On the tiny fields peasants sow a little sorghum, string beans, peas, put yam, manioc. Their share in an agricultural production is huge: they give about 80 percent of food production. But all this is consumed by country families. Only few Africans living near to large settlements, deliver a small amount of products to the market. And it means, that the majority Rwandan still live a subsistence economy.
Colonial methods of familiarizing of the African village to monetary attitudes have not justified themselves. Till now the income per capita in Rwanda remains almost to the lowest in the world.

… The Road blocked by people, mainly women. From afar it seems, that at them fantastic hairdresses. But it appears, at women on heads or hand of bananas, or huge pots, or a sheaf of fire wood. The majority of people goes to small, but the noisy market that was stretched in lowland, in city centre.
Consider, that the market and has given rise to city Kigali. When in 1892 German Oscar Bauman the first of Europeans has reached these places, the city yet was not, and the market existed.
In 1907 German colonial authorities have created in the neighborhood with the market the headquarters, have constructed small settlement and have ordered to local residents to take to Kigali surpluses of products, an ivory and skins. For them gave pennies, and sometimes simply selected the goods. In a bourgeois German historiography this process of a robbery refers to « as the beginning of familiarizing of natives to monetary attitudes ».
On change to German colonizers send Belgian “trustees”. Kigali became the center of a colonial province. In its market the ivory has quickly disappeared: elephants have been consumed, capes from skins of the leopard - the indispensable order of soldiers - tootsi were gone, became a rarity inkangara - unique on the beauty and a subtlety of work wicker products from straw the papyrus: tiny boxes, kegs for storage of ornaments and huge vessels for a flour. At Rwandan women were not time to polish everyone straw, to choose from thousand hundred one golden shades, to weave them in complex figure, to invent on forms repeating one another. They should grow up па the tiny floor corn, sorghum, yam, bananas and to sell them in the market in Rolled. The obtained money gave authorities. Non-payment of the tax at the best was punished by prison. Quite often defaulters put in empty flanks from under black oil which put then па decaying coals.

The main thing that amazes in all Ruanda, is an abundance of people. Leave from capital on ten, fifty or even on hundred fifty kilometers (it is impossible further: will get in other country) - everywhere, lifting a red dust, you will be surrounded with a stream of barefoot people. Inhabitants of Ruanda joke: « Under everyone banana leaf at us the person sits. And in fact of bananas do beer uruguagu, enjoying by the big popularity. Bananas borrow the fifth part of our processable grounds. So understand, how many at us banana leaves. Hardly who can count up ».
But people have counted up. The population of tiny Uganda makes 4 million person, and in a year it increases па 3,3 percent. If this rate of a gain will be kept and in the future, considering occurrence in the country of medical institutions in 23 years the population will be doubled.
Already now Ruanda posesses in Africa a record on population density; 163 persons on 1 км2!
Only two percent of people live in cities and are not connected with the ground. Ruanda - the country possessing fertile volcanic soils, is located at the equator. Here it is possible to remove on three crops in a year.
It would seem, here there should be an edge of abundance, tropical paradise, where it is enough to african to shake a palm tree to be full and dressed. Whether but so it? Much should be gone through Ruanda to people.

The name of people - nilots - is not casual: the life is connected by their closest image with the river Nile and its inflows. To nilots people living here dinka, nuer, bari belong. Nilots differ the high growth, the extended form of a head, long hands and legs. Color of a leather at them very dark, almost black.
The basic employment nilots - animal industries. During a rainy season all population together with the cattle gathers in the village located on a height not filled in by water. The cattle is located in a shelter - «zeribu». Feed it basically with waste of products of agriculture. With recession of water the cattle is driven away on the pastures adjoining the rivers usually located in several kilometers from village. Together with cattle the population which lodges in time dwellings sends also. In villages remains a few people who are looking after crops. One of kinds sorghum (durra) is grown up mainly. For a year it is possible to collect two-rub crops.
Plant nilots large horned livestock - zebu, it idolize. Kill zebu in very rare cases.
The greater role in a life nilots is played also with fishery. Rather widespread fish in the rivers nilotic pool is nilotic perch reaching greater sizes. There was a case when have caught in lake Noe the perch in weight of 126 kg. Tiger the fish in the sizes is less nilotic than the perch and very much bony. Good flavouring qualities the African carp differs.
Fish here catch various networks, and also jails, hooks, baskets. It is greater help in a feed nilots.
In heads rivers the Bahr-el-Gazali the place of the Mesh-ra-er-Rec is located, it was visited by researchers of Southern Sudan, among them were V. Junker.
The Mesh-ra-er-Rec - a terminal point of a steamship line which connects it to Khartum. River vessels on this line go all year.