Kivu not only most beautiful of great lakes of Africa, is a unique large reservoir on all continent, not populated by crocodiles and hippopotamuses.
In waters of lake on depth from 350 up to 480 m in huge quantities the dissolved carbonic gas, methane and other substances contains. In superficial layers of these substances meets a little so for the person they are imperceptible. Nevertheless it is enough of them to not allow the harmful elementary to occupy lake Kivu.
The quantity of natural gases in Kivu gradually grows, as at the bottom of a waste hollow which borrows lake, the decaying fossils getting from the top layers have accumulated many. Their concentration speaks, on the one hand, huge hydrostatic pressure which is created with huge water thickness of deep lake, with another - stagnant character of deep waters which do not mix up with top. Stocks of methane reach here 50-60 billion м3, and the government of Rwanda assigns greater hopes for its use. Meanwhile the huge water gasholder supplies with fuel only located in Kisenii a brewery. But on methane Kivu the whole branches of the heavy industry could work. The government of Rwanda has addressed to neighboring countries with the offer to construct on the cooperative beginnings an interstate metal works where Rwandan methane could be used as an oxidizer.
The coast Kivu Rwandan seems where more beautifully Congolese. Woody mountains rising from water as though part, and between them in the east distances of savannas open.
Small coffee plantations the dark greens sharply contrast with allotments of peas and beans - the basic food of farmers - hootoo.
Here and there on coast the massive buildings of Catholic missions combined from a dark red brick tower; a cathedral, a number school, a hostel, hospital.

Kisenii - small Rwandan small town, a resort and the shopping center located on coast of lake Kivu.
We approach on lake from the north where last eruptions of a volcano burned out a wood and have covered the ground with the monotonous reservation grey tuffs. The heated lava has gone down in lake, has boiled its water па distance of 40 m from coast and has formed long deserted cape.
If not the bright sun, royal palm trees along coasts and flaring bright-red colors bougainvilleas at inputs in private residences Kivu it would be quite possible to accept for the Norwegian fjord. Each eruption of volcano Niragongo put forward new small peninsula or cape in lake, gave rise to new bays and gulfs, created whimsical outlines of its modern coastal lily.
Overgrown moistureloving woods of a rock break directly to transparent waters which, washing away soft tuffs, create freakish grottoes and caves. In the narrow gulfs deeply pressing mountains shaded from above by crones of trees, always easy, darkly and mysteriously. And on small islands - rocks solar patches of light start up cheerful hare, and the easy breeze breaks about them the waves, scattering diamonds splashes.
Living among mountains of east coast Kivu people of a tribe hoonde, every day observing as the sun sits down in red lake, have combined a legend. In it the sun spend the night in Kivu is spoken that. It warms up its bottom, and the fused ground mixs up with water, searches for an output. And then living under mountain to a floor a giant - demigod Gongo orders to spirits to open a muzzle of a volcano. « Then eruption begins, - assure hoonde.-And red light which in the evenings is visible above Niragongo, is gleam the sleeping sun ».

With human ant hill rustles and the market of Kigali potters about. Already nobody takes away at Rwandan the peasant its crop. And the market and now - an original mirror of economy of all country.
On wooden races are hanged out patterns motley chintz and cheap clothes. It sew in the street. Tailoring men are engaged.
Near to their “workshops”, it is direct on the ground, - multi-coloured plastic cups and plates, tiny pocket mirrors, handfuls of cigarettes, combs, a beads, copper bracelets. Hills of a peanut till 10-12 nutlets, an ear of corn which sell lay, having divided on two-rub parts, and bananas, bananas, the bananas filling air around of the market by a sickening sourish smell.
There and then, open-air, on banana leaves spread out by the ground and shabby mats, were placed African beer.  In huge, there is less meter in height, big-bellied pots ickibindi banana beer uruguagu foams. Who wishes to try this drink, buys a hollow stalk of a reed in the neighborhood, lowers it in a pot and, costing, sips beer. The price of this pleasure - all some fine coins.
On a capital market, as well as in a home market of the country as a whole, shortage of the foodstuffs is felt still. On the tiny fields peasants sow a little sorghum, string beans, peas, put yam, manioc. Their share in an agricultural production is huge: they give about 80 percent of food production. But all this is consumed by country families. Only few Africans living near to large settlements, deliver a small amount of products to the market. And it means, that the majority Rwandan still live a subsistence economy.
Colonial methods of familiarizing of the African village to monetary attitudes have not justified themselves. Till now the income per capita in Rwanda remains almost to the lowest in the world.

… The Road blocked by people, mainly women. From afar it seems, that at them fantastic hairdresses. But it appears, at women on heads or hand of bananas, or huge pots, or a sheaf of fire wood. The majority of people goes to small, but the noisy market that was stretched in lowland, in city centre.
Consider, that the market and has given rise to city Kigali. When in 1892 German Oscar Bauman the first of Europeans has reached these places, the city yet was not, and the market existed.
In 1907 German colonial authorities have created in the neighborhood with the market the headquarters, have constructed small settlement and have ordered to local residents to take to Kigali surpluses of products, an ivory and skins. For them gave pennies, and sometimes simply selected the goods. In a bourgeois German historiography this process of a robbery refers to « as the beginning of familiarizing of natives to monetary attitudes ».
On change to German colonizers send Belgian “trustees”. Kigali became the center of a colonial province. In its market the ivory has quickly disappeared: elephants have been consumed, capes from skins of the leopard - the indispensable order of soldiers - tootsi were gone, became a rarity inkangara - unique on the beauty and a subtlety of work wicker products from straw the papyrus: tiny boxes, kegs for storage of ornaments and huge vessels for a flour. At Rwandan women were not time to polish everyone straw, to choose from thousand hundred one golden shades, to weave them in complex figure, to invent on forms repeating one another. They should grow up па the tiny floor corn, sorghum, yam, bananas and to sell them in the market in Rolled. The obtained money gave authorities. Non-payment of the tax at the best was punished by prison. Quite often defaulters put in empty flanks from under black oil which put then па decaying coals.

The main thing that amazes in all Ruanda, is an abundance of people. Leave from capital on ten, fifty or even on hundred fifty kilometers (it is impossible further: will get in other country) - everywhere, lifting a red dust, you will be surrounded with a stream of barefoot people. Inhabitants of Ruanda joke: « Under everyone banana leaf at us the person sits. And in fact of bananas do beer uruguagu, enjoying by the big popularity. Bananas borrow the fifth part of our processable grounds. So understand, how many at us banana leaves. Hardly who can count up ».
But people have counted up. The population of tiny Uganda makes 4 million person, and in a year it increases па 3,3 percent. If this rate of a gain will be kept and in the future, considering occurrence in the country of medical institutions in 23 years the population will be doubled.
Already now Ruanda posesses in Africa a record on population density; 163 persons on 1 км2!
Only two percent of people live in cities and are not connected with the ground. Ruanda - the country possessing fertile volcanic soils, is located at the equator. Here it is possible to remove on three crops in a year.
It would seem, here there should be an edge of abundance, tropical paradise, where it is enough to african to shake a palm tree to be full and dressed. Whether but so it? Much should be gone through Ruanda to people.

The name of people - nilots - is not casual: the life is connected by their closest image with the river Nile and its inflows. To nilots people living here dinka, nuer, bari belong. Nilots differ the high growth, the extended form of a head, long hands and legs. Color of a leather at them very dark, almost black.
The basic employment nilots - animal industries. During a rainy season all population together with the cattle gathers in the village located on a height not filled in by water. The cattle is located in a shelter - «zeribu». Feed it basically with waste of products of agriculture. With recession of water the cattle is driven away on the pastures adjoining the rivers usually located in several kilometers from village. Together with cattle the population which lodges in time dwellings sends also. In villages remains a few people who are looking after crops. One of kinds sorghum (durra) is grown up mainly. For a year it is possible to collect two-rub crops.
Plant nilots large horned livestock - zebu, it idolize. Kill zebu in very rare cases.
The greater role in a life nilots is played also with fishery. Rather widespread fish in the rivers nilotic pool is nilotic perch reaching greater sizes. There was a case when have caught in lake Noe the perch in weight of 126 kg. Tiger the fish in the sizes is less nilotic than the perch and very much bony. Good flavouring qualities the African carp differs.
Fish here catch various networks, and also jails, hooks, baskets. It is greater help in a feed nilots.
In heads rivers the Bahr-el-Gazali the place of the Mesh-ra-er-Rec is located, it was visited by researchers of Southern Sudan, among them were V. Junker.
The Mesh-ra-er-Rec - a terminal point of a steamship line which connects it to Khartum. River vessels on this line go all year.

On the western borders of Republic Chad one nominal lake - one of the most interesting reservoirs of Africa is located.
The lake Chad is shallow and differs surprising inconstancy of a water level and outlines of coast that is connected with fluctuations of quantity of dropping out deposits and the charge of water in the rivers feeding lake.
The area of lake annually varies from 12 up to 26 thousand км2. Depth also varies from 4 before 11 m.
The lake Chad laying at height of 280 m, has slightly saltish water, and close mouthes the rivers - fresh. In lake constantly there is a change of water owing to the big underground outflow feeding subsoil waters of adjoining areas.
The western and southern coast of Chad low, boggy also are covered by dense grassy vegetation, northern and east - the most picturesque - are cut strongly up. In this part of lake especially many the sandy islands formed drowned dunes. Marshiness complicates approaches to lake. Places the cover of interwining reeds and other marsh plants happens is so dense, that maintains weight of the person. The local population moves on lake in pies by means of long poles.
The river Shari with inflow of Logone bears the waters in lake Chad. Fluctuations of charges of water in the river are rather significant. At N’Djamena, near a confluence of Logone, Shari in the beginning of June has width of 84 m, at flood in November its width reaches 600 m.
Shari by the right is considered one of the most fish rivers on the ground. The largest fish named by the captain, can reach two-meter length and 80 kg of weight, besides it is very gentle on taste.
Area of headwaters of Shari - the most fertile and salted in the country. Population density here reaches 15 person on 1 км2 (at average density in Republic Chad 3 persons on 1 км2).
The republic Chad shares on two parts: northern and southern. In the south there live the Negro tribes speaking on set of languages and adverbs. One of them profess christianity, others are true to local traditional cults. The population of the south is engaged in agriculture. Fertile soils allow to grow up here alongside with food the valuable commercial crops going on export.
Northern part of Chad is basically deserts and semideserts. There there is no fertile ground. The population long since is engaged in nomadic cattle breeding.
Tormented by the long-term civil war imposed by intervention of France, people of Chad requires the world and calmness.

Half an hour of driving on the asphalted highway from the airport up to the center of Conakry so have quickly flown, that we had not time to admire the beautiful garden city which has stretched on 16 km. In its streets high coconut palm trees with wide leaves, mighty, in two grasps is dense-green trees of a mango proud, giants almost deprived foliage baobabs which mighty branches are capable to sustain weight of a steam locomotive, and magnificent bright green silk cottons improbable thickness and height grow. They cover with impenetrable foliage of the house.
We have gone on a city market. How many paints and sounds! Bright attires of women and men. A noisy dialect. Silvery mountains of a fish. Guttural barracking of the sellers who are praising highly the goods, bleating of the goats brought on sale, bark of dogs, scurrying between legs, whistles of policemen, frequent fraction of a drum tam-tam under which sounds guys dance.
How many here gifts of the sea and the generous Guinean ground! A flounder, a tuna, the halibut, sardines… On palm leaves mountains of the cleared oranges rise. Huge a sheaf of bananas. Them eat crude, fried and baked. Fragrant fruits of a mango. Yam - a sweet potato. Greater, sweet roots similar to a giant beet cassava - plants with a high thin stalk and sprawling leaves. Beside roots ямса lay, at cooking it becomes white, friable. Corncobs, pineapples, coffee grains, beans of cocoa, nuts coca-cola, bags with snow-white rice…
The market lived, boiled, as suddenly the sky has darkened, blaze from the end in the end a lightning and the rain has rushed. For the first time we have understood, that such a tropical downpour. It seems, that from the sky falls are plunged. The elements stormed half an hour. Then the rain as has suddenly stopped, as well as has begun, and through breaks in clouds has looked out the hot African sun. The area quickly dried out, as if a hot plate, and was smoked the ferry. In bright beams of the sun all has found former clearness and brightness.

In Middle Ages the Arabian scientists gone with enterprising merchants through hot sand of Sahara on the south, named present Guinea the country of ” the Southern rivers ». Really here it is a lot of rivers. The extensive mountain plateau carries the name of Futa Dzhallon -« the Father of the rivers ». From uplands from height of 1500 m the river Senegal flows down. Also the well-known Niger - the greatest river of the Western Africa from here originates. During from above 4 thousand in km flows it to ocean, crossing on the way five countries.
People of the country of ” the Southern rivers » tall, broad-shouldered. On persons of all shades of a leather, from the most dark up to olive, - White teethes, the open smiles. On many men - short trousers - shorts and motley years shirts, national suits «boo-boo» - long to toe a wide white shirt. Some Guineans are dressed in bright color attires. Color of a leather, clothes depend on an accessory to one of ten tribes making the four-million population of the country. The largest nationalities of Guinea - Fulbe, Malinke and soosoo.
At women of Guinea complex hair dresses, put on they in bright dresses with prevalence of red, yellow, green colors - colors of a national colors. Red color symbolizes determination of people to struggle for the independence. Yellow color - the sun of Africa, shining all: both black and white. The third color of a flag - evergreen jungle. Trees in jungle cost shoulder to shoulder, to it they and will stand in hurricanes. People will be not broken with any storms!..
Conakry, capital of Guinea, - the most damp place in all Africa. Humidity of air reaches here 99 percent. Sensation such as if all time you are in a pair bath. A leather sticky, a shirt wet. It is difficult to local mistresses to dry the washed linen, it is necessary to spread it on hot stones. But vegetation here violent and uncontrollable in growth.

But during this moment the sun has been closed by a cloud which became more and more, yet has not accepted an image of the saddled camel. It has caused confusion as should mean among women, that tuaregs are won and have lost the camels. This very day soldiers have come back without the extraction, broken and weakened. Then women with tore from persons of a coverlet who carried till now, and with contempt have told: « you won, shame of our eyes! Now you should close the person ».
Approximately in 18 years on a small family holiday the young man receives a coverlet – litam, which color can be dark blue or white. Since this moment it becomes the man. It is More never in a life in the afternoon at night it does not remove a coverlet. If there is a necessity to replace it or to fasten anew the man will leave in a dark corner of a tent where nobody will see its naked person.
At tuaregs the ancient Libyan parent right till now was kept. The woman borrows high position. The close relative and the defender of children is not the native father, and the brother of mother.
It is possible to tell without exaggeration, that women at tuaregs are native of cultures. They keep legends, among them it is a lot of poetesses, almost all women are competent. The authority of the woman is so great, that its one contemptuous word can cause excitement in all tribe.
The unforgettable show represents a rising camp tuaregs, in a way camels with high bales on humps, and men are equipped, women and children sit down on the racers. Whole people removes.